moxie63
New Member
Posts: 5
Reg: 01-05-04
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 03-09-06 03:54 PM - Post#71584
I need some advice, is the mass technique 7&7 setup a good place to start for someone just learning to hover all over again, I am not new to helis I just haven’t flown in 8 years and back then I could only hover although very well, I feel like I have forgotten everything I was taught. I was a rotory modeler subscriber for years and have read bits and pieces of the Mas technique. Concerning setup I thought I understood the 7&7 setup until I read something on this forum. It short it stated your collective ATV’S should be at 100% but in the Mas setup it states that you should neutral all servos and control links and obtain neg7 & positive7 with ATV'S I did and it ended up being 30% in both directions I am confused. Any help would be much appreciated Sorry it’s such a big Question.
Thanks John M
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alexander
Senior Member
Posts: 921
Reg: 12-20-02
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03-09-06 07:11 PM - Post#71587
In response to moxie63
There’s really no "proper" setup per se. You can have a bad mechanical setup (geometry not as good as it could be) and poor radio setup (unequal ATV’s). However, there is no rule that says “100% ATV’s and +/-9 (or whatever) is best”
A higher ATV value with shorter servo horns will give your control surface more resolution and torque, while a lower ATV with a longer servo horn gives you less torque, but more speed.
Since you’re just getting back into it, for now, I would get your ATVs as close as you can to 90-100%, and identical on both ends (for example; don’t use 50% on one end and 100% on the other).
With that said, I prefer to run lower ATVs on my collective servo with a long servo horn to speed up the swashplate, hence the response in flight. On my cyclic servos I run an ATV of about 80-85% to keep it more precise (more resolution). Also, there is no “optimum, or best” pitch setting. Different blades require different pitch settings for the same pull, and different people like the feel of different pitch values. I personally run +/- 11 deg of collective pitch, with an ATV of about 60%....just to get a very snappy feel that I personally like.
Basically, what I’m saying is the Mas Tech Setup is a good starting point, but don’t limit yourself to it. It may be the best setup for Mike, and others….however it’s not the best setup for everyone. I don’t know anyone that runs the exact same setup as someone else, because we all like different feels.
Hope this helps,
Colin
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moxie63
New Member
Posts: 5
Reg: 01-05-04
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 03-09-06 07:57 PM - Post#71588
In response to alexander
That was a very good explanation it helped very much thank you, My machine is mechanically setup totally liner no binds, so my next question is since I am just getting started again should I keep the neg pitch to a minimal say -2.
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zio
Senior Member
Posts: 1667
Loc: Wellington, Ohio- the pla...
Reg: 05-25-03
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03-09-06 08:55 PM - Post#71590
In response to moxie63
-2 is fine. Could you tell us what bird and how far out the ball is on your horn for the servos?
Your gauge might be off too. It might not look like much when you move the blades but it does effect it alot.
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Mike Mas
Full Time Senior Member
Posts: 4127
Loc: Roanoke VA USA
Reg: 02-20-00
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03-10-06 12:44 AM - Post#71595
In response to alexander
As Alexander said, you don't have to be limited to any certain set-up when learning. As you progress, the helicopter’s set-up becomes more and more important for repeatability reasons. This way, if you pop your machine, or get another, you'll be able to clone your set-up so you feel comfortable regardless of which machine your on.
Regardless, sooner or later you'll end up using the Mas Tech set-up of 9/0/9 because it offers a totally linear set-up and the machine behaves the same regardless if your right side up, or up side down. At present, possibly 90 % of all pilots around the world are using my set-up because it offers the most overall control with ease of set-up.
I listed below a re-print from our May 03 issue, Enjoy!
Good luck and welcome back!
RE-PRINTED FROM ROTORY MAY / JUNE 03
It was back in the mid ‘70s when I realized that if I was going to push the envelope of model helicopters from their present state of an occasional loop or roll, that I would first need to develop a totally new setup that would be linear in action. The standard set-up then of -2/+6/+9, only moved 3 degrees from half stick, to full stick. From half stick down, it moved 8 degrees. Therefore, it was traveling over twice the distance one way, than the other.
To fly inverted, I would need a minimum of 7 degrees negative (thick wood blades). This would worsen the standard setup even further. In order to fly inverted with the standard setup, the range from half stick up would be 3 degrees, but from half stick down, it would be a whopping 13 degrees. There was little doubt in my mind, if I were to fly inverted some day, I would have to address this problem.
Coming from an extensive background of model airplane flying, where inverted flight was a common occurrence, I knew one day it would be my next goal with model helicopters. After almost a year of thought and planning, I pioneered a new linear setup for model helicopters. I called it, “The Mas Technique Setup.” It was a completely new style of flying.
After 18 months of preparation, in 1977, my setup enabled me to become the first person in the world to fly a helicopter inverted. In addition to inverted flight, the Mas Tech Setup enabled me the ability to perform the first real aerobatics (3D) with a stock model helicopter. After my first public demonstration-arranged by Walt Schoonard of Miniature Aircraft on Thanksgiving Day 1979, and getting over the initial excitement of flips, tumbles, and numerous other maneuvers, I soon learned that the Mas Tech Setup would start a whole new era in competition flying as well. For example, in the past, when executing a roll, as the machine went knife-edge two times during the maneuver, you could only wonder where the needed 0 degrees of pitch was. With the Mas Tech Setup, I simply move the stick to center and 0 degrees pitch is right where it can easily be found.
After I introduced the Mas Technique Setup in 1977, it was not until some 10 years later that other top pilots began to use it. In fact, not until 1987, would another pilot fly a model helicopter switchless inverted. The term, “switchless inverted” came about when radio manufacturers began installing electronic switching in the radios that reversed some functions. This enabled you to fly inverted, yet move the controls in a normal manner.
Today, regardless of the style of flying, FAI, aerobatics, 3D, stunting, switchless, or whatever you choose to call it, the Mas Technique Setup has been adopted worldwide and is currently in use by almost every sport and aerobatic pilot including World Champion caliber FAI and 3D flyers.
The beauty of the Mas Tech Setup is that it does not require the mythical two-stage setup, one set of parameters for hover and another for aerobatics. Why fly a helicopter with two setups, when you can use the same setup for both. It makes no sense to have one setup when the helicopter is at 6 feet and another when it’s at 15 feet. With the Mas Tech Setup, and the use of fully symmetrical blades, the same set-up you use for your groundwork may also be used for aerobatics or FAI competition.
Another phase of development for the Mas Tech Setup was the need for a new mechanical setup on the helicopter as well. I wanted a setup that was both repeatable and linear. The Mas Tech Setup allows the servo arms, bellcranks, mixing arms, etc. to be in their center of rotation at mid-stick, thus allowing total linear movement from positive to negative pitch. This enables us to have the same deflection at 5 degrees negative as we do at 5 degrees positive. Another plus about this setup is, it will work on any radio system regardless of features. I’m using the same setup today on my 1024Z / PCM-10 transmitters that I used on my 5-channel Futaba in 1978. Keep in mind, there were no helicopter radios back then. If you needed a curve, you created it by drilling a hole off center and offsetting the servo wheel.
There were no idle-ups at that time either. I created the first idle-up on R/C helicopters using a stock 5-channel airplane radio. The collective and throttle were run from a “Y” connector, so they both moved at the same time. I engaged the idle-up by using the fifth channel switch to essentially disconnect the power to the throttle servo using a micro switch mounted on the 5th channel servo. As I climbed out from hover, I would position the throttle at approximately 80-90% open, then I would flip the 5th channel switch, cutting the power to the throttle servo, thereby locking the throttle in an open position. I was then free to operate the collective and maintain reasonable power. As crude as it was, it was a beginning and a way to fly inverted.
Needless to say, over-speeding was indeed something to deal with. I essentially used the engine’s high-speed needle as a form of governor. Prior to takeoff, I would lock the throttle at 70-90% open and de-pitch the machine to zero-degrees. The needle would then be set to prevent over-speeding with no load. Let me tell ya, this was without a gyro. And for you guys who do aerobatics, I don’t have to tell you what it’s like to keep the tail in check when a machine is falling inverted from the sky screaming with the tail going wild.
Looking at the way it works!
Using the Mas Tech setup, needless to say, a helicopter is not going to hover at the half-stick position with 0 degrees of pitch. When the machine lifts off, the throttle will be just below the 3/4 open position. This puts the engine throttle barrel exactly where we need it, 60-70% open at hover keeping the engine ahead of the collective loads. All this and we never had to touch the collective, throttle curves, or linkage to obtain the setting.
As we compare Chart #l and #2, we can see the evolution of pitch setups. On Chart #1, at the half stick position, we have approximately 5 degrees at hover, -9 degrees at low stick and, +9 degrees at full throttle. As we move the stick from half to full stick position, we move the collective a range of 4 degrees. However, as we move the stick from hover to low position, we now move the collective a range of 14 degrees. This means the typical setup has three times the collective movement from half stick to low throttle, than it does from half stick to high throttle, or a “3 to 1” non-linear collective control. With this standard setup, the collective is somewhat smooth and predictable from half stick to full stick, but very erratic and non-repeatable from half stick down. This is the exact area that is most critical for autorotations, FAI, and aerobatic flying!
I called it then, my “Seven & Seven” setup, –7/0/+7 (9 degree composite blades). Looking at Chart #2, you can see that it’s a total linear design. From half stick (zero degrees), it’s 7-9 degrees up and 7-9 degrees down. Movement from half stick up is identical to half stick down. The result is a helicopter that responds the same no matter where the collective stick is. Just as the transmitter stick is designed linear in its movement from center, now so is the control of the helicopter.
The real beauty of the Mas Tech Setup is, it uses total linear (straight) curves on both the throttle and collective. As we look at Chart #2, you will notice the linear pitch curve also provides a linear throttle curve. The distinct advantage of the Mas Tech Setup is you can physically and mentally feel and “find” a zero degree pitch setting any time you desire. This is a common natural point where the machine and rotor disk are unloaded, producing what I call, “zero lift.” Notice I said, the machine and the rotor disk, because they each can exhibit “zero lift” individually of each other. It is the combination of these two points that practically every maneuver, regardless of type, is dependent upon to occur at the same time.
Let’s demonstrate how linear the Mas Tech Setup is. A maneuver such as a roll is performed using exact 1/4-stick movements. Let’s look at a slow 6-8 second roll as an example. Let’s say you’re at 3/4-throttle when you initiate the roll command, as the machine reaches knife-edge, you simply move the stick to half position, which is 0 degrees pitch. As you reach inverted, you’re at 1/4-stick position. As you reach knife-edge again, you’re back to half stick, when the machine is up right you’re at the 3/4-stick position again.
Try moving your throttle stick linear with a conventional standard setup. Better yet, try finding exactly zero degrees pitch during a roll, it’s hidden somewhere around the 3/8 throttle position. This is the reason that a good roll was one of the most difficult maneuvers in FAI competition. Using the standard setup, it was almost potluck to find the needed zero degrees. This is the exact reason that semi-symmetrical blades were ever considered for F.A.I., because they essentially de-pitched themselves while inverted. When a pilot performed a roll, he would hold almost the same pitch, since the blades had less lift inverted. Well, bottom line-they didn’t work.
With the Mas Tech Setup, anytime you want zero lift, you simply move the stick to center position-it’s that simple. Let’s take autorotations for example, as you perform an auto, you’ll instantly know where 0 degrees is. Move the stick to center, then lower it to 1/4 stick. Next, you’ll add or subtract pitch to lengthen or shorten the auto. Inverted autos-same thing-during the “roll out” back to upright flight, you simply move the stick to the center position, do the roll, and back to normal position again. Performing tumbles or flips are a breeze, because you physically know where the machine is unloaded-collective wise. You’ll find, just as I did back in the ‘70s, that regardless of the maneuver you’re performing–it’s more predictable, since you’re moving the collective control in a linear fashion.
I have also included a “Phase 2” Mas Tech Setup. It is intended to help transition pilots from their standard setup to the Mas Tech Setup without a drastic change in performance and/or transmitter stick orientation.
The Phase 2 setup (Chart #3) will work fine for practically all model helicopters regardless of manufacturer and/or blade design. As we examine Chart #3, we find 7-9 degrees (9 degrees for 30 machines) positive top-end pitch. At the other end of the chart, in the low pitch setting, we find only 6-7 degrees of negative pitch. While this setting might seem minimal, I assure you that you’ll have plenty of inverted pitch for hovering and climb out. In addition, it narrows the negative range for autorotations.
I know how much you guys love that top-end pitch; however, it’s your enemy. In forward flight, it will cause “pitch up” and/or loss of control, as well as blade stall during aerobatic maneuvers. Remember, the less pitch travel we have, the more overall control we have of our helicopter. This is especially important with 30-size helicopters, since their control system design has less overall control of the rotor disk. Under no circumstances should you have over 20 degrees of pitch range. Let’s deviate a little, so we understand this a bit better. Unlike 60-size helicopters, most of our 30-size helis use non-precision type plastic mixers for collective and steering control. It’s not that the 30-size control system is inadequate; it’s the fact that the rotor span has increased to the point that the control system is at its maximum operational design limits.
You might not think of a 30-50-size machine as having a large rotor span; but keep in mind the 60-size Schluter Heli-Boy, the helicopter that standardized the 60-size helicopter market, had a 52-inch rotor span. A raptor 50 has a 53 1/2” span. Combine this with the fact that a 50 engine far exceeds the power of previous 60 engines, and you can see that plastic control parts have reached their design limits. This is the prime reason why, as new machines are released, metal parts become more standard. Most mods such as a metal swashplate, ball bearing mixers, washout, etc. all provide additional control for the main rotor system that the original equipment lacks.
Getting back to our Phase 2 chart, instead of using zero degrees at half stick, as in the original Mas Tech Setup, you will find the revised chart has 2 degrees positive pitch at half stick. As in the standard Mas Tech Setup, the helicopter is not going to hover at the half stick position with 0 degrees or 2 degrees of pitch. When the machine lifts off, the throttle position will be somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 stick. Again, this puts the engine throttle barrel where we need it.
Regardless of which Mas Tech Setup you choose, make sure you start with a “fresh” transmitter model. Double check to make sure that your throttle and collective servo curves are linear in control. The Mas Tech Setup works perfect with only one point on your curve, even in idle up. The throttle “U” curve should be set up at 100%/60%/100%. Yep, just one point set at approximately 60% barrel opening at half stick for the idle-ups. If your transmitter has an expo setting for throttle, use it. It will round the point from a “V” curve to a “U” curve.
Make sure the servo wheels on the throttle and collective servos are at their half travel positions at half stick. Double-check your program to make sure both the throttle and collective curves are totally linear and the ATV (travel volume) is set to 100%. If you cannot achieve the 9-degrees of travel each way, don’t mess with the radio; replace the servo wheel with the correct size to achieve all the travels without the aid of the radio.
Make sure that the engine carburetor barrel is at the half open position when you have the throttle/collective stick at half. As you move the throttle from full open to full-closed position (throttle trim full low) make sure there is no binding or any under or over travel. In addition, it’s very important to make sure that the throttle trim shuts the engine off at full low trim position only. If the engine shuts off as you begin to lower the trim, re-adjust the rod. Just the trim position alone can make a difference on the barrel opening at half stick.
Next, we will adjust the collective. Again, you should have a linear curves ( / ) and the ATVs set to 100%. Move the throttle/collective stick to the half position. You should now obtain 0 or +2 degrees pitch on the main rotors (regardless of blade design). Next, find the proper position on the servo wheel so you can obtain 9-degrees of positive pitch at full throttle and 9-degrees negative at low throttle.
If you’re using the Mas Tech Setup-Phase 2, once you have the collective mechanically set, move the throttle to the full-low stick position and adjust the pitch ATV to reduce the travel at low stick to obtain 6-7 degrees of negative. Do not adjust the pitch curve. Using this method keeps the curve linear. In a few weeks or months, once you’re used to the setup-you’ll want to increase the ATVs to 100% again and get used to –9 degrees at low stick.
When it comes to flying with the Mas Tech Setup, no one will have to tell you it flies different or better. The machine will become predictable and linear in a whole new way. You will feel exactly what I felt back in the early ‘70s when I, for the first time, experienced a world of difference and unlimited abilities with model helicopters. RM [/B]
Mike Mas
"we know around here"
ROTORY ~ THE MOST TRUSTED NAME IN R/C HELICOPTERS
Get Your Free Issue of Rotory
http://www.rotory.com |
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moxie63
New Member
Posts: 5
Reg: 01-05-04
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03-10-06 02:30 AM - Post#71599
In response to Mike Mas
Thank you Mike the reprint is great, and thanks to all the other replys for the help.
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chase
Senior Member
Posts: 1643
Loc: Oklahoma city
Reg: 03-20-05
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03-10-06 02:46 AM - Post#71601
In response to moxie63
Mike I have one question. I am running a Toke 40 on my raptor 30. And tried useing this technique. But when I set it 0 degrees pitch and 50% throttle and mid stick. My head speed is screaming. I am not sure what speed its at but I am sure its way way to fast. How do I correct this. I now am running 11 -11 and am only using three quarter throttle total.  I have to check the set up. Its been a while since I have messed with it.
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Anonymous
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03-10-06 03:09 AM - Post#71602
In response to chase
Quote:
I am not sure what speed its at but I am sure its way way to fast.
If you don't know how fast it is, then how can you be certain that it's too fast?
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Topcat
Senior Member
Posts: 905
Loc: NW Indiana
Reg: 12-10-02
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03-10-06 03:10 AM - Post#71603
In response to chase
sounds like the toki is looking a good engine to have eh?
| I Only Do What the Voices in My Head tell Me to Do
Bergen 50
Spectra G
Os 50 Hyper
Futaba 9CHP Super
R149 DP
Futaba 401/9254
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chase
Senior Member
Posts: 1643
Loc: Oklahoma city
Reg: 03-20-05
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03-10-06 03:31 AM - Post#71606
In response to Topcat
Bk its the sound that this thing makes and the heavy tail wagging. A little bit of loud fluttering. Now none of this happens with the setup that I run now. Plus a few guys at the field said that I need to change it becouse of the high heedspeed. I could be wrong but dont want to take any chances. I still havent upgraded the head block or the blade grips. Topcat a guy I know was asking me about the Toki and I told him to buy one. If he didnt like it I would buy it from him. He has had it for 3 days now and is still breaking it in. I would swear by one of these engines. A few cant believe that I only run 3 quarter throttle. Maybe a little more but not much. I just dont need that much power right now. I guess I can tear it down and do the upgrades needed and retry the Mass Technique.
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Anonymous
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03-10-06 03:37 AM - Post#71608
In response to chase
Well call me crazy, but until you actually verify the headspeed, it seems premature to assume that you know it's too high.
Perhaps you've been running everything too slow all this time, and don't know any better... don't know until you get some actual numbers.
Not calling you stupid - just saying "first things first".
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alexander
Senior Member
Posts: 921
Reg: 12-20-02
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03-10-06 03:44 AM - Post#71609
In response to Buddykitchen
Mike,
I totally agree with your linear setup. However todays helis and motors can handle much more 9/0/9. When I used to fly 680s on my 90 I ran 12/0/12 to get the feel I wanted.
I always try to get as much out of it as I can.
Colin
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chase
Senior Member
Posts: 1643
Loc: Oklahoma city
Reg: 03-20-05
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03-10-06 04:28 AM - Post#71610
In response to alexander
Ok this weekend I will take it to the field and have some one help me tach it. Ah crap that means I have to reset everything up.
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alexander
Senior Member
Posts: 921
Reg: 12-20-02
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03-10-06 05:25 PM - Post#71617
In response to chase
Quote:
But when I set it 0 degrees pitch and 50% throttle and mid stick. My head speed is screaming.
Reduce the throttle at zero collective. All you are trying to do is match engine output to rotor load. The 50% throttle thing is a guide or rule of thumb, just like the 10/10 for collective blade angle range. I've had carbs need 40% opening before at zero collective. Some engines will require more and some will pull less throttle, some blades will need different maximum blade angles than others. Some engines are more powerful than others. The collective angles and throttle applied to a 32 engine and a 40 engine driving the same blades are bound to be different.
Stephen
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Anonymous
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03-11-06 12:04 AM - Post#71618
In response to alexander
Again, this is all a little premature. Before he can say that his headspeed is "screaming", it seems he should know how fast it actually is.
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zio
Senior Member
Posts: 1667
Loc: Wellington, Ohio- the pla...
Reg: 05-25-03
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03-11-06 12:09 AM - Post#71620
In response to Buddykitchen
Well if he was around one properly tuned helictoper with a head speed of around 1900-2000 and knows what the blades look and sound like he might have developed a sorta feel for it you know? When I went from humming bird to hornet I noticed a definate RPM increase although I didnt have any precision tools.
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DavidH
Senior Member
Posts: 1555
Loc: Birmingham,AL .
Reg: 05-31-01
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03-11-06 12:12 AM - Post#71621
In response to Buddykitchen
I have seen plenty of Raptor 30's turning the head 1950-2000 or more. They don't seem to have a problem turning those rpms. They seem to hover nice in the 1600 rpm range. So the aerobatic head speed above is not excessive.
Running a V throttle curve. IT is not uncommon to have the mid point at 35-40% throttle. But all this depends if the geometry of the throttle linkage is setup correctly. If the linkage is not setup correctly, then the throttle curve in the radio will be all over the place.
David
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Phil Noel
Senior Member
Posts: 303
Loc: Canada
Reg: 02-19-03
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03-11-06 12:40 AM - Post#71623
In response to alexander
BK
Stephen & Colin are right on. Due to the huge changes in blade technology and the big increases in engine power today, simple three point pitch and throttle curves are very outdated. IMHO it has been so for at least 10 years.
Many years ago, the drag of a 550mm blade at zero pitch combined with the low power of the engines of the day, may well have meant that it took a 50% throttle opening to maintain a decent head speed (e.g. 1850) at 0 degrees of collective pitch. But today, with much more efficient blades, and specially with our far more powerful engines (specifically something like the Toki 40), a 50% throttle opening (using a standard 30 gear ratio of 9.7 or so) would certainly cause the head speed to "scream".
And that same motor may well develop enough power to pull 11 degrees on 550mm mainblades at the same rotor speed of 1850.
Let us assume the blades we are using will hover at 1850 with 4.5 degrees of pitch and require 0.65 hp to do so. And to overcome the drag and maintain 1850 at 0 degrees it may require 0.45hp.
And we have an engine (like the OS32) that when muffled produces about 0.95 hp when wide open. And let us also assume such an engine can pull 9 degrees of top end pitch at 1850 when at full power.
If I set a staight line "MAS Tech" pitch curve with 0 degrees at mid stick and 9 at the top, my 3/4 stick position will luckily work out to 4.5 degrees (1/2 of 9). Note that this just so happens to be what I require to hover at 1850! And it would also mean my engine could manage the 9 at the top and bottom while maintaining the 1850 rotor speed.
Now let us look at the throttle. Using the 3 point "MAS Tech" V curve with 50% throttle at half stick and full throttle at low and top stick....Wow, can you believe it....we lucked out again, for the engine delivers the 0.45hp when half open reguired a 0 pitch to maintain 1850, and at three quarter or 1/4 stick (where I would have +/- 4.5 degrees to hover right side up or inverted)it will also be at a throttle opening that delivers the required 0.65hp (exactly what is betwee 0.45hp and .95hp) !!! So low and behold it all works out.
The fly in the ointment, so to speak, is when we throw in an engine that puts out more then 0.95hp at full throttle. Let's take one that puts out 1.2 hp.
Using the same pitch and throttle curves will cause major changes in rotor speed throughout the stick position. Why? Because at half stick and 0 pitch the load stays the same (we haven't changed to bigger blades) but the power at 1/2 throttle may now be almost what the other engine was at 3/4 throttle!! And at hover stick (3/4 stick) the same load of 4.5 degrees is now greeted by more power again .... and ditto for the 9 degrees at full stick.
So we may now have to up that top end pitch to 11 degrees to absorb all that extra power and keep the rotor speed at 1850. But now unless I change the pitch at 3/4 stick I will end up with 5.5 degrees of pitch there.
And as we have already established, the rotor at +/- 4.5 degrees and 1850 head speed generates the required lift to hover. So how do I keep it from overspeeding and/or lifting off before the 3/4 stick position we are used to?
Also we have already established that we only need 0.65 hp to hover at this rotor speed. And using the standard MAS Tech throttle V curve we will have about 0.9 hp now at the 3/4 stick setting instead of the .65 from before!!
This is why the radio manufacturers developed radios with 5 point and more pitch curves. So that we can dial in more accurately the pitch degrees we need to harness our power and 5 point plus throttle curves so that we can more accurately set our power delivery at these points to maintain as constant a rotor speed as possible.
As you can see, with this motor, you will have to dial up your top end pitch to 11 degrees, dial down your 3/4 pitch position to reset it for 4 1/2 degrees, leave the mid position at 0 degrees and dial down the bottom stick for -11 degrees and dial up the 1/4 stick point to a -4 1/2 degree setting.
And the throttle curve will have to be dialed down at the 3/4, 1/2 and 1/4 stick settings.
I guess this is what Curtis and other top 3D pioneers understood well back then and how they went on to perfect the initial idea so that it worked much better with any blade/motor combination that they chose to use.
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chase
Senior Member
Posts: 1643
Loc: Oklahoma city
Reg: 03-20-05
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03-11-06 01:58 AM - Post#71624
In response to Phil Noel
 Thanks for explaining that. I will refigure my throttle and pitches curves. Once you explained it  Its so simple. right there in front of me  .
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Anonymous
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03-11-06 02:24 AM - Post#71627
In response to chase
Phil,
Thanks for the detailed explanation, but I'm well acquainted with the physics of how it works.
All I was saying was that it seemed premature to state "it's too fast", when it's not even known how fast it is.
Surely you would agree that the first step in adequately diagnosing a problem (perceived or otherwise), is to actually quantify it. 
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