spider
Senior Member
Posts: 238
Loc: Wi
Reg: 07-05-02
|
 11-04-02 04:45 PM - Post#11154
In response to Staff
are you frustrated because your fingers are to big to get in by your fan shroud to put in your glow plug, or the plug falls out of your nut driver? stick the end of your plug in a scrap piece of fuel line tubing and start threads once they catch use your wrench , i use a nutdriver! saves me some time and frustration!!!! later spider!!!
|
Doug
Senior Member
Posts: 823
Loc: Naples Fl. USA
Reg: 11-17-00
|
 12-04-02 02:57 PM - Post#11946
In response to Staff
On the Raptor 30-50 (and others that use a start shaft). Drill dimples in the shaft for the set screws and it will prevent the shaft from mushrooming and being a PITA to remove.
|
rccopter
Senior Member
Posts: 229
Loc: Perth Australia
Reg: 01-23-02
|
 01-13-03 01:08 PM - Post#14566
In response to Doug
Ok heres a well-known tip regarding engine flooding, this goes for basically all nitro engines.
If for some reason your engine is not starting it may be flooded. This may present itself in the form of a locked engine (i/e it wont turn over), but not always. Simply unscrew the plug a few turns, or completely if you want, and turn it over then (you might want to turn of or block the fuel when doing this). Tighten it back up and off you go.
Another tip about telling which way is throttle increase/decrease when I cant see the carbie opening
If the engine is installed and you want to figure out which way is full throttle and which is low throttle you may be able to tell by looking the ball link/throttle leaver on the carbie. As many carbie’s increase throttle the throttle leaver will move out away from the carbie, and obviously when you decrease they move in. This is often very slight (few millimetres) and you may need to hold a marker (eg a ruler) in a stationary position beside the leaver/ ball link to help measure which way it moves.
|
Don B
Senior Member
Posts: 231
Loc: Florida
Reg: 07-10-03
|
08-31-03 10:42 PM - Post#25601
In response to Staff
Thought I would suggest, to all my newbie helo flyers, to try the following idea to keep their helos from flipping over when you first try to lift it or land it. In lieu of the wiffle ball or hula hoop set-up (which can cost you a few dollars with no return for your money) try this idea........
Go to a Home Depot or Home Center and buy about 24' of 1/2" PVC, four 1/2 elbows, four 1/2 T's and some glue, the total cost should be about $9/$10. Make yourself a 4' square frame with the the four 1/2" PVC elbows. In the center of the 4' square run two rows of 1/2 PVC from the top of the frame to the bottom keeping the distance between them the WIDTH OF THE STRUTS of your particular helo, attach these two PVC pieces with the four 1/2 T's.
On the two center struts come down to the center, which should be two feet, drill two holes on each center piece, 3" up from the center point and 3 "down from the center point. The holes should be about 1/4 dia. or large enough to slip a cable/wire tie thru the four holes.
Attach your helo, to these four holes, using the four cable/wire wraps and you have yourself a set of "training wheels." When you lift your helo and have a problem it will come down on the 4' square and not tip over. When you have mastered lifting and landing, your helo, you can always RE-USE the PVC piping around your home, no money is wasted and you have a SAFE landing pad for your helo.
It's working for me and I only have one hour of flying time (lift put down, lift put down etc.)with my new Raptor 30..........
Good Luck,
Don 
Coral Springs, FL
|
akforsyth
New Member
Posts: 24
Reg: 01-23-01
|
01-16-04 07:55 PM - Post#33981
In response to Staff
After not flying for some time (eg winter), run some fuel through you carburator to get the 'dust bunnies' out of it. 
| The Stupid Shall Be Punished |
|
reddragon
Full Time Senior Member
Posts: 3863
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Reg: 01-22-03
|
01-18-04 05:51 PM - Post#34260
In response to akforsyth
Dust Bunnies?  Way up North things are a little different.
-Wayne
Fly it like you stole it! |
|
akforsyth
New Member
Posts: 24
Reg: 01-23-01
|
01-18-04 07:23 PM - Post#34277
In response to reddragon
Heck yeah!!! Was off flying for bout a year and a hlaf, when I came to my senses and started flying again my OS 32 would not run on the high speed. It baffled me, so i took out the engine, stripped it down, checked the bearings, cleaned eveything up and put it back together. Cleaned the carb out and then ran some fuel through the nipple to get any cleaning residue out. Just then out pops a big dustbunny made up of who knows what and fuel residue... Runs awesome now!!! Read my signature, I was punished!
| The Stupid Shall Be Punished |
|
reddragon
Full Time Senior Member
Posts: 3863
Loc: Brooklyn, NY
Reg: 01-22-03
|
01-19-04 05:03 AM - Post#34334
In response to akforsyth
FASCINATING!
THIS IS WHY THIS FORUM IS THE BEST IN THE WORLD!! YOU LEARN SO MANY INTERESTING THINGS HERE! 
-Wayne
Fly it like you stole it! |
|
ifixairplanes
New Member
Posts: 3
Reg: 02-06-05
|
02-07-05 02:47 PM - Post#57834
In response to reddragon
Instead of mechanically locking your engine when tightening the prop nut, lock it hydraulically with after run oil. I have also used this method with denatured alcohol with good luck.
| Team Quick-UK
Scoob-e RC
"It sometimes a good thing to look at yesterday's work with today's eyes." - Sean |
|
Krazy8
New Member
Posts: 26
Loc: Southern California
Reg: 09-06-03
|
02-07-05 03:45 PM - Post#57837
In response to ifixairplanes
Exhaust oil
Want to keep the oil from dripping out of your exhaust all over everything after flying try these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXK144&P=
They are rubber carb covers and I am using them on .30 & .60 size machines with and without exhaust stinger. They are in a variety pack of 8 (2ea in 4 different sizes). They fit snuggly and are easily removed and don't leak..
|
204167
New Member
Posts: 8
Reg: 10-04-05
|
10-08-05 03:50 PM - Post#66152
In response to SouthFlaRaptor
Another way to secure the fuel lines is to use Zip ties the small ones they work GREAT! 
|
casio
Professional User
Posts: 68
Loc: -n-load
Reg: 04-03-07
|
04-27-07 06:01 AM - Post#83736
In response to jheli
Has anyone port and polished their engines and exhaust ports
| DUCK!!! HEAR IT COMES!!!!!!!! |
|
casio
Professional User
Posts: 68
Loc: -n-load
Reg: 04-03-07
|
04-27-07 06:07 AM - Post#83737
In response to ifixairplanes
I have heard thats a good way to bend a connecting rod in the engine...at least that is true with motot vehicle and motorcylce engines.
| DUCK!!! HEAR IT COMES!!!!!!!! |
|
tommytt1
Amateur User
Posts: 42
Loc: Mercerville NJ
Reg: 08-07-06
|
01-17-08 05:28 PM - Post#86167
In response to casio
Being of the Cheap nature with some of the support equiptment associated with my helis, I have this tip for holding a non one way bearing equipt starter wand. take your starter and clean the bell where the rubber cone adapter goes in, I use brake clean for this,do the same with the rubber cone, and the wand that goes into the adapter. Next take high temp rtv silicone form-a-gasket and put it inside the bell, on the rubber adapter, and on the wand. Push them together. Wipe off the excess. I next plug in the starter and make sure the wand is running true. Next prop up the starter so the silicone can dry. Twenty four hours later its ready to go! Tom
I made a mistake once, but I was wrong......... |
|
