Staff
Senior Member
Posts: 1510
Loc: Roanoke Va USA
Reg: 03-05-00
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 04-22-02 01:27 AM - Post#7089
Place your "Engine Tips" on this thread!
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jkelly
Senior Member
Posts: 396
Loc: Southaven, MS U.S.A.
Reg: 02-25-01
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04-22-02 02:57 AM - Post#7107
In response to Staff
If you use a remote glow adapter consider using a glow starter with a meter. Sometimes the clip on the adapter can have bad contact with the glow plug. The end result is no glow heat and engine will not start. The meter makes it very easy to see if the plug is hot.
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nipps85
New Member
Posts: 17
Loc: gurnee il
Reg: 03-12-02
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04-22-02 11:57 PM - Post#7174
In response to Staff
I was told by ACE that with the 'new' version of the tt36 carb, 3 to 3 1/2 turn out on the main needle would be about good. The manual needs to be updated as it say that 2 turns is about right.
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Heli-Nut50
Member
Posts: 45
Loc: Valemount, BC, Canada
Reg: 03-15-02
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04-23-02 01:24 AM - Post#7185
In response to Staff
Needle valve settings changing in flight, engine going lean in flight. Give this a try, the engine vibration may have worn the threads in the needle bore and it is a little sloppy in there now, and the oring is letting some air by. Remove the clicker thing and slide a piece of fuel line over the joint between the needle and the needle body in the carb. If this does not help with inflight leaning try checking your fuel lines for damage or maybe you need a header tank so the carb draws from a constant level.
Fly Hard!
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volare
Member
Posts: 66
Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02
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04-28-02 03:59 PM - Post#7396
In response to Staff
It is good if the exhaust tap on your muffler has the same or greater inner diameter as your fuel line. This will allow your fuel tank to pressurize and depressurize as quickly as possible when you increase or decrease throttle.
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Tom Berg
Senior Member
Posts: 307
Loc: Clovis, California
Reg: 03-13-00
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05-07-02 11:53 PM - Post#7665
In response to Staff
Before you put the engine into the helicopter, check the carb/throttle barrel. Some set screws that hold the barrel into the carb can come loose and they fall out in flight.
I put a very small drop of locktite at the base of the set screw and put it into the carb before the engine goes into the helicopter.
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nsacco
Senior Member
Posts: 453
Loc: Raleigh, NC, USA
Reg: 01-10-01
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 05-15-02 04:01 PM - Post#7940
In response to Staff
For mounting a Gasser muffler (Large can type) and keeping the bolts snug.
First, bolt up the muffler tightly with or without the gasket and mark the bolt heads on the side. Then remove the bolts.
Drill holes thru the heads of the hex bolts holding the muffler on. Perhaps you'll drill 2 holes at 90 degrees.
Screw the bolts back on and use a piece of wire in the shape of a "V" that will reach from the frame through the two bolt holes.
THen bolt the "V" wire to the frame. I sandwich it between 2 washers.
The reason you may want to drill 2 holes in each bolt head is to help you in case once you tighten the bolts, they don't line up the way you thought they should.
| Happy Flying!
It's not how much it costs, it's how much you can afford! |
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volare
Member
Posts: 66
Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02
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05-19-02 07:10 PM - Post#8038
In response to Staff
If you use a remote glow adapter it is important to have a good ground on the engine. If you use one of the engine nounting bolts as a ground make sure the loctite on the bolt is not preventing you from getting a good ground.
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Anonymous
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06-21-02 02:17 PM - Post#8783
In response to Staff
Re: Installing fan & clutch assembly
When installing a engine fan & clutch assembly, alot of heli manufacturers recommend using a piston lock tool. However this has to be done carefully or damage to the piston head or piston crank rod will result. An easier way to accomplish this task. Is to rotate the engine crank shaft until its open (looking down the carburator throat) and remove the engine carburator. Next place a hard wood dowel or end of plastic tooth brush inside and tighten the assembly. Remember to use blue loctite to insure the assembly wont loosen up while your engine is running. "Happy rotoring"
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SouthFlaRaptor
New Member
Posts: 5
Loc: Miami,Florida,U.S.A.
Reg: 06-22-02
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 06-22-02 08:06 PM - Post#8808
In response to Staff
A poor man's fuel line clamp can be made by snipping off a 1/8" piece of fuel line then stretching it open with a needle nose plier and slipping the fuel line through the opening leaving the 1/8" piece at the end of the fuel line.
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Tom Berg
Senior Member
Posts: 307
Loc: Clovis, California
Reg: 03-13-00
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07-05-02 04:46 PM - Post#8998
In response to SouthFlaRaptor
If the engine is running rough and was smooth before, remember to check the plug or try a different plug depending on the time of year. My heli seems to fly better with an Enya #3 in the winter and an OS#8 in the summer.
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Christopher J
Full Time Senior Member
Posts: 3351
Loc: Kansas City, MO
Reg: 11-09-01
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07-05-02 07:48 PM - Post#9004
In response to Staff
When using a new engine leave the high needle alone until you get the idle needle set. The pinch test is sometimes a good way to do this. Once you get the engine started remove the ignitor and pinch the fuel line about one inch away from the carb. the engine should change in pitch or try to die within 3 to 4 seconds. Once you get the idle set put the heli into a hover. If you're not getting the power desired you can start tweaking on the high needle. Keep in mind that adjusting one needle affects the other, so when you get the high needle set you may need to readjust the low end slightly.
| Christopher J
East Coast Vario Field Rep
Size it up and then scale it down |
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Doug
Senior Member
Posts: 823
Loc: Naples Fl. USA
Reg: 11-17-00
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07-08-02 01:34 PM - Post#9033
In response to Staff
If you use the "Quick UK" style of header tank (single atachment) don't use a "stand off" spacer, as the tank will resonate and foam the fuel causing lean shifts when a little air gets in.
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northof60
New Member
Posts: 2
Loc: Canada AB Fort McMurray
Reg: 04-14-02
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07-15-02 04:45 AM - Post#9133
In response to Staff
try this-to make the tt36 wake up,take out the stock .10 head gasket, but in the .06 brass one suplied as a extra.
use 15% fuel,works great so far.
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vario
Senior Member
Posts: 307
Reg: 11-01-00
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07-19-02 12:03 PM - Post#9196
In response to northof60
Instead of using silicon or those "paper" gaskets to seal the header to the motor, use a light smear of 5 min epoxy on the header to make a leakproof seal. Clean both parts with alcohol prior to putting the epoxy on. Then just tighten. Any excess epoxy will burn off inside the header, and when you take it apart, the header just unsnaps from the motor. No more leak.
Joe
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rcheliflyer
New Member
Posts: 5
Reg: 07-19-02
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07-21-02 05:25 AM - Post#9212
In response to Staff
I was flying my Gas Xcell and had an in flight flameout
this was after many flights and the gasser has never quit
on me before.
I was totally surprised and luckily was in a position to auto in.
Upon inspection I found a tiny piece of carbon bridging the
plug gap.
I removed it and It fired right up, inspection in the plug
hole has some deposits, but not really excessive I usually
use YamalubeR MC oil and that day was trying out a different oil Redline Syn.
Anyway after that I now file the ground electrode on my plug
about halfway exposing the center electrode.
Carefully of course not to leave any shavings and also deburring the sharp edge.
This makes it a lot harder to catch a piece of carbon and
still allows a good spark.
I've been out of RC for a while and this forum has helped
to "Re-Spark" my interest.
Thanks
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Davin C
New Member
Posts: 4
Loc: Overland Park, KS
Reg: 07-20-02
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07-21-02 09:00 PM - Post#9219
In response to Staff
I noticed this the other day when working on an engine with a friend. We were changing the sleeve and ring on an engine of mine and having a bear of a time getting the ring to compress to get the sleeve back into the engine. A good way of doing this is to lightly coat the piston and sleeve in 10W 30 oil. Place the piston in the engine body and get the rod on the crank shaft. Now slide the sleeve down on top of the piston and carefully square up the piston against it. Hold the engine firmly in one hand and use the other to press the sleeve in. The oil will help the ring collapes and slip up into the sleeve.
Davin C
| Hope you can get it up and keep it up. |
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Ergo60
Senior Member
Posts: 186
Loc: South Haven,MI USA
Reg: 09-19-01
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08-20-02 05:09 PM - Post#9718
In response to Staff
Quick adjustment tip:
If you are going to make adjustments on your engine, always start by going rich, and not lean. That way you can avoid the problem of going to far and burning up the motor. It is supprisingly easy to go to far to fast.
If all else fails start from the mfg specs, and again go rich first, and then start leaning out the engine.
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rotorhead1
New Member
Posts: 5
Loc: Spokane, WA
Reg: 02-15-01
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08-30-02 05:04 PM - Post#9891
In response to Ergo60
Check and tighten the all the screws on any Thunder Tiger engine before you decide it is worthless.
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jheli
New Member
Posts: 24
Loc: KCMO
Reg: 02-11-01
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09-02-02 04:58 PM - Post#9924
In response to rotorhead1
If you are using low or no nitro, try removing any head shims in the engine. You should have a noticable increase in power.
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