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Username Post: Heli-Tips: Set-Up        (Topic#7094)
Staff 
Senior Member
Posts: 1510
Staff
Loc: Roanoke Va USA
Reg: 03-05-00

04-22-02 01:32 AM - Post#7094    

Place your "Set-Up Tips" on this thread!

 
Heli_Driver 
Senior Member
Posts: 518
Heli_Driver
Loc: Arlington, TX USA
Reg: 10-26-01

04-22-02 03:22 PM - Post#7144    
    In response to Staff

Safety First!

When building and maintaining your helicopter it is YOUR responsibility to set it up and maintain it to be as safe as possible.Attention to detail, pre/post flight inspections are very important and are critical to flying safety.

Make sure everything is balanced that can be out of balance, everything is secured tightly. Use locktite where needed and keep exposed wires from sharp frame edges to prevent cutting or shorting a wire.

In this hobby you shouldn't cut any corners when it comes to setup and safety. You risk your life and others around you every time you fly. If something fails due to neglect and someone gets hurt, well you know the rest and it does happen.

I just finished flight school with Todd Bennett and Jason Krause in San Antonio this past week. These guys preach safety first and flying second. Setup is as much a safety factor as flying safely.
Raymond


 
nsacco 
Senior Member
Posts: 453
nsacco
Loc: Raleigh, NC, USA
Reg: 01-10-01

04-22-02 06:52 PM - Post#7154    
    In response to Staff

Avoid chafing of your servo and other wiring around corners by slitting fuel line or other tubing and placing the wiring inside the tubing. A bit of tape or wire tie will keep it secure. Don't snug wire ties so tight on the heli that the vibrations will cause the wire ties (hard plastic) to eat through the wire's insulation. Don't let loose wires hang around and vibrate against heli parts - especially metal ones - I like to use foam or sponge and wrap up the loose wires.
Happy Flying! It's not how much it costs, it's how much you can afford!


 
volare 
Member
Posts: 66

Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02

04-22-02 08:34 PM - Post#7169    
    In response to nsacco

When setting up your cyclic servos don't set them up so the swashplate goes to its physical fore/aft limit and then it's left/right limit. This will cause binding if you ever apply full left/right along with full fore/aft because the swashplate is round, not square. Make sure you set it up so binding won't occur in this situation.

 
RW-1 
Senior Member
Posts: 853
RW-1
Loc: Sunrise, FL. U.S.A.
Reg: 01-18-01

04-23-02 05:42 PM - Post#7213    
    In response to Staff

For some rotor head blade pitch setups, you can get away with placing the heli on a known level surface, then locking the flybar with a toothpick (known to work on Concepts and Nexus heads).

This then can get you in the ball park for pitch readings with your meter. (Remember to center the cyclic!)
Marc


 
charly 
Senior Member
Posts: 107

Loc: xenia, ohio, usa
Reg: 01-31-01

04-23-02 11:48 PM - Post#7221    
    In response to Staff

If there is ANY way possible, try to find some expert help before you fly. They can point out areas which may be set-up wrong, saving you your first flite/crash! Take a note pad with you so you will be able to remember ALL the things he told you to watch out for
Plus you'll make a good friend who shares your passion for helicopters and will be willing to help as you progress.

 
volare 
Member
Posts: 66

Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02

04-25-02 12:36 AM - Post#7259    
    In response to Heli_Driver

Make sure those ball links fit well. It makes a difference in the smoothness of your helicopter and is easier on your servos. There are sizing tools available at shops or you can modify one of the 'ball' parts of the link to make your own sizing tool.

 
Scotty740 
Senior Member
Posts: 240

Loc: Nashport, Oh USA
Reg: 01-29-01

04-25-02 11:58 PM - Post#7308    
    In response to volare

One thing I see all the time at the field is a helicopter set up with the pitch limited by the ATVs of the radio. Set up the ATVs for full mechanical throw of the pitch arm. Then adjust linkage so you have the desired min/max pitch range. Now use the pitch curve to set up the pitch range you want.
Scott Stickle IRCHA # 1660 There is a very fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness


 
Scotty740 
Senior Member
Posts: 240

Loc: Nashport, Oh USA
Reg: 01-29-01

04-26-02 12:05 AM - Post#7309    
    In response to Scotty740

When trimming out a freshly set up heli take it back to the bench and make link adjustments to eliminate the trim used in the radio for the first flight. I do this 3-4 time to get it set up mechanicaly if needed. You may need some subtrim on the radio but a good mechanical set up will keep it to a minimum.
Scott Stickle IRCHA # 1660 There is a very fine line between Hobby and Mental Illness


 
volare 
Member
Posts: 66

Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02

04-28-02 03:51 PM - Post#7394    
    In response to Staff

Here is a tip for raptor owners. The stock tail boom supports are known to break after a few hours of use. One thing you can do is make small 'washers' out of fuel line, and put one of these washers on each side of the supports when you assemble the helicopter. I did this and I am still using the original boom supports after 150+ flights. Of course another option is to buy the carbon fiber boom supports but they cost about $30.

 
volare 
Member
Posts: 66

Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02

04-28-02 09:49 PM - Post#7400    
    In response to Staff

The optimal distance between the clutch shoe and clutch liner is .010-.012" on each side. An easy way to do this without measuring is to wrap one or two layers of electrical tape around the clutch shoe and use it as a spacer when you glue the liner in.

If you find there is too much space you can cut a strip out of an aluminum can or a business card and glue it behind the liner.


 
nsacco 
Senior Member
Posts: 453
nsacco
Loc: Raleigh, NC, USA
Reg: 01-10-01

04-30-02 11:31 AM - Post#7456    
    In response to Staff

Many helis out there now don't require setting gear mesh. However if you find that you do need to set the mesh, try using a piece of paper between the gears. Vary the thickness for more or less mesh. Cut a strip the thickness of the gears and run it into the teeth. TIghten the gears and roll out the paper and you're done. 20# regular copier paper is a great place to start.

If your gears have a high/low side due to manufacturing tolerences, set the mesh on the high side. Ensure that you've removed most of any slop and you're done.
Happy Flying! It's not how much it costs, it's how much you can afford!


 
Tom Berg 
Senior Member
Posts: 307

Loc: Clovis, California
Reg: 03-13-00

05-07-02 11:46 PM - Post#7663    
    In response to Staff

When setting the pitch. Before you start to measure using a gauge, pop the ball link off the blade holder and check that the blade sets level. Sometimes the blade can be too far off center and give different pitch readings.

Once both blades sit level (balance) in the holders with the pitch rods off, then you can slightly over-tighten the blades and start measuring your pitch settings with the rods re-connected.

Remember to loosen the blades back to "normal" before your next flight or you may get some extra vibration.

 
JAY 
Senior Member
Posts: 226

Loc: Weare, NH. USA
Reg: 06-03-01

05-08-02 10:50 AM - Post#7685    
    In response to Staff

When building a new Heli or rebuilding a crashed HELI always check the Heli's CG. Make your Heli a little nose heavy.

If your fuel tank is in front of the Main mast check your CG with a empty tank, if your fuel tank is behind your main mast check your CG with a full tank.

The easiest way to check your CG is to hold the Heli by the flybar. If the Heli is tail heavy you can use a larger Reiciever battery or move the gyro to the front, If the heli is excessive nose heavy you could move the tail servo (if it is under the canopy) to the tail boom.

I had a little accident this weekend. I just got done rebuilding my second heli with some goodies on it and was to eager to get it in the air that I forgot to set the CG.

Jay

 
volare 
Member
Posts: 66

Loc: Cincinnati
Reg: 01-04-02

05-19-02 07:35 PM - Post#8040    
    In response to Staff

It is best to keep your rotor blades tighter than normal while learning to autorotate. This will help prevent boomstrikes if you have a rough landing at the end of your auto.

 
Ricardo Forte 
New Member
Posts: 10

Loc: Brazil
Reg: 05-11-02

05-24-02 01:21 PM - Post#8170    
    In response to volare

AUTOROTATION
I learned with this excellent article of Mike Mas !!!!!
------------------
http://rc-helicopters.com/pdfs.html


 
Anonymous 


06-21-02 08:15 PM - Post#8785    
    In response to Staff

Re: Placing & securing Decals
After cuting your decals for placement and peeling the decal off. Dip them into a water filled bowl with about a drop of liquid diswashing soap. This will all you to position the decal on your bird, with out having to lift them up each time to position them. Once your decals are positioned remove all the air bubbles out and let them dry. After they have dried apply a litte CA glue (thin) around the decal edges. Once dry your decals will not lift up around the edges and your ship will look professionaly built.
Happy rotoring!


 
rccopter 
Senior Member
Posts: 229
rccopter
Loc: Perth Australia
Reg: 01-23-02

06-22-02 04:32 PM - Post#8806    
    In response to Anonymous

What I used to do with my RC cars was spray Windex (a window cleaner I can buy here in Australia) on the body then follow the same steps as outlined above minus the super glue on the edges and that used to work pretty good. I originally read it in a RC car magazine.
visit my club www.perthrcheliclub.org.au


 
ncostes 
New Member
Posts: 4

Reg: 06-17-02

06-28-02 01:08 AM - Post#8895    
    In response to Staff

After assembling the rods/ball links with my fingers on my first heli, I bought a century ball link driver, and a 2nd cheap plastic one. The century tool has a hex end that connects right to my B&D cordless screwdriver. Now I can assemble/disassemble ball links/rods in seconds, with no thumb wear.

 
JAW 
New Member
Posts: 2

Loc: Kalamazoo, MI
Reg: 08-12-02

08-13-02 11:27 AM - Post#9605    
    In response to Staff

When building, setting up or performing maintenance on your helicopter, it's a good idea to take steps to ensure that you will not lose small screws, nuts, bolts or hex-screws that you may drop off of your drivers. At most home improvement stores, you can purchase large magnetic sheets (around 9 X 12 inches) that are used to place over heating/cooling vents or fresh-air returns in your home. Place one or two under your helicopter when you work on it and any ferrous parts that you may drop or fall of the heli, will be caught on the magnetic sheet. Fits easily in your flight-box as well!

 
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