02-29-08 02:36 PM - Post#86466 In response to jetss
The modes I referred to are Normal mode...where no switch is active. On left side of the TX you have an IDLE UP mode switch. Not on face of TX it is on the surface of the TX where the antenna exits the TX. Left side...long lever switch. That is your Idle UP switch. If the switch is in the AWAY position you are in normal mode. So you have a rudder trim for that mode. If you flip the ID switch you now have another rudder trim you can set.
If you look at the right side of the TX...same surface as ID switch...you will see a HOLD switch. This shuts off the motor for autorotations. If you flip that switch the motor should not operate if you move the throttle/collective "T/C" stick. So flip that switch and you have a rudder trim there too. That is what I mean when I say the 3 modes...normal/ID/HOLD...3 separate rudder trims to set. If you use SUBTRIM it carries into ALL 3 of these flight modes. So you don't have to rudder trim separately. You can check this but leave the heli off as you flip the switches to check this or the motor may come alive.
The subtrim number you mention is fine. It is quite acceptable to have 2 to 10 as the number. Subtrim numbers are very small fine adjustments...vs. the rudder trim usage. So you are well within acceptable numbers.
You could put the gyro into standard rate mode...but that will cause yaw of the heli. That is IF you centered the t/r pitch slider with the linkage as I suggested above. This set up is for heading hold which is what the gyro and TX program is the set default. If you put the gyro into std mode the heli WILL yaw a bit. Servo will not creep but the heli t/r linkage will need adjusted for std mode.
You can go into your gyro menu and change the gyro values to lower numbers to change it. I've not played with the gyro in that mode so I cannot provide numbers. Check your manual for reference. Basically lower the gyro numbers in the gyro menu to put the gyro in standard rate mode. If at 60 now...go much lower. What you want to see is the servo go to the center position. BUT before you do that check you set up now. Move the rudder stick to full deflection then release it. You should see the t/r servo go to the full throw and not return to center. Once you get the gain number right for std mode you will see IF the rudder stick is moved to full throw and released that the servo springs back to the center position. It will do this each time consistently. This is how you will know you have the STD rate mode set up for the gyro. If the servo sort of stays at the full end throw position you are still in heading hold mode. SO you can adjust that menu number till you see the servo go to center...this would be the same position you saw when you removed the gyro from the servo in the previous post to check the servo horn location.
REMEMBER, if you try to fly in std rate mode your t/r linkage WILL need to be adjusted to keep the heli from yawing. This is because the gyro is NOT making the corrections and the t/r trim is off. So a mechanical rod length adjustment will be required for std rate mode…quite normal.
I'd say stay with heading hold. It is easier. Seeing the servo creep is not an issue. Hovering the heli will show it will be fine. Again I don't look at the bench activity of the servo much. Just for that basic servo horn set up. Past that hover the heli and use the subtrim to remove any yawing. It will work.