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| Username | Post: What is your pitch range-Concpet 30? | |
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870 
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 03-13-06 07:47 PM - Post#71716
If you have a Concept 30 DX, SR, SR-T, SR-X or even VR, what is your pitch setting at Low, Mid and High stick? Thanks in advance. 
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Rudy Full Time Senior Member Posts 4841 
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03-14-06 02:39 PM - Post#71736
Pitch range on these were limited. There are some mixing arm extenders that when used will give you at least 9 to 9 pitch. Ricks RC part number C30001WB cost is 16.95.
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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03-15-06 12:02 PM - Post#71766
Thanks for the information Rudy. You're right about the limited pitch range.
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NitroHeliKrazy Member Posts 73 |
05-04-06 06:33 PM - Post#73467
I have an Concept SRX that has 8.5 on the positive and 7.5 on the negative. I can't figure out how to get more than that either. But I am also having problems keeping the tail still. I'm not sure if its the really thin rod that conects that tail to the drive gear or is it my old Telbee 701 HH gryo. I am in the middle of re-setting up the whole tail system now. I'm use to flying my Raptor now which is pretty rock solid. Guess I'll have to get use to the whole gummy feeling again.  Fly on my rotor-mates!! 
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Rudy Full Time Senior Member Posts 4841
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05-08-06 01:47 PM - Post#73610
The tail can be getting slop in the tail pitch slider. If I remember right the tail control rod was a z bend wire that fits in to a plastic hole in the tail pitch slider. This hole can enlarge over time. Also I have have a set of the mixing arms extenders i provided a link to above. The are installed on a washout assy and can ship it if you like.
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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05-08-06 10:30 PM - Post#73639
Rudy is right about that hole getting larger. After dozens of flights it will be a major pain in the arse. You may want to try to fit a ball link to that using some piano wire and one of those soldered threaded pieces onto the wire. In order to get rid of "almost all" of my Z-Bend rods I had to do a little magic here and there but it worked. http://rcmodeling.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=1291&papass=&sort=1&thecat=500 Check the Tail rotor servo on this fuzzy image for an example. Quote: Nitro how did you achieve such great negative pitch?
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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10-10-06 01:52 AM - Post#78358
I can't seem to get the image here. I will try again later. 
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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10-13-06 02:18 AM - Post#78432
CONCEPT TAIL PITCH ROD Images and I just don't agree. After several attempts I could not post the image here since it is just too big and I didn't save it correctly. http://www.runryder.com/helicopter/gallery/10228/ The first picture in my Gallery at RR shows the added ball link on the tail pitch rod on the Concept 30. I threaded a quarter inch and bent some music wire to make the rod.
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Anonymous |
10-13-06 03:52 AM - Post#78444
Is it time to call the chicken lady again? 
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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10-13-06 11:26 AM - Post#78452
You're damn skippy. I tried everything to save that bloody image at the lowest resolution and it still wasn't low enough to post here! The only time I can successfully post an image is when I SCAN something and then it can be saved to post here. I don't understand since I can post pictures at a high resolution on other forums.
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larrytoelle Full Time Senior Member Posts 3735 
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11-12-06 08:37 PM - Post#79061
Howdy Wayne, I believe your images are too large. On RR ... they're 1000x667 pixels. On Rotory ... about 800x600 is the limit ... so you need to resize them ... or talk Mike into increasing the image limit size. An easy way to resize them, before uploading to your Rotory Gallery, is run them through "IrfanView." It's a free utility that has been around a long time and is small, quick and easy to use. http://www.download.com/IrfanView/3000-2192-100219... After you've uploaded the smaller image, then you can display it in the Gallery, right-click on the image, select "properties", highlight the filename(entire URL) and copy(Ctrl C) the file name(URL) to your clipboard. Back in the message post ... click on "Image" and "Paste (Ctrl V)" the saved filename from your Gallery. Like magic it'll work ... Hope this helps and might save a chicken ... LT 
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ja1010 Senior Member Posts 619 
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11-13-06 07:10 PM - Post#79086
These older Kyosho Concept birds (including Nexus) Have wire drives in them, with small in boom spacers made out of nylon to hold the tail drive wire in place, and some were updated with brass sleeves aftermarket. I would say your wire drive may be whipping in the boom causing shake and instability from worn in-boom "bearings" if you can call them that. I cut my teeth on an SRT, SRX, and Nexus, cool little ships, but that wire drive was a pain if not cared for. Mine would shake like hell until it dawned on me what to check. Yep, the holes in those nylon in boom bearings wore right out. Also, watch the spacing of them in the boom when replacing, they have to have the right spacing in the boom to keep harmonic whipping and fatique from breaking them. Its all in the manual.
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-13-06 10:37 PM - Post#79090
I believe your images are too large. On RR ... they're 1000x667 pixels. On Rotory ... about 800x600 is the limit ... so you need to resize them ... or talk Mike into increasing the image limit size. Larry, I tried saving the jpg. image to the lowest resolution after several attempts on my PC and it was just a shade above ROTORY's standard image size limit. I gave up at that point, there was no use beating a dead horse. Thank you for your help posting images. I can assure you that along with Buddy's prior advice and your new direction I will get this right one day. And thank you for your saving grace and posting my image. Easy!
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-13-06 10:45 PM - Post#79091
These older Kyosho Concept birds (including Nexus) Have wire drives in them, with small in boom spacers made out of nylon to hold the tail drive wire in place, and some were updated with brass sleeves aftermarket. I would say your wire drive may be whipping in the boom causing shake and instability from worn in-boom "bearings" if you can call them that. Jeff I can tell you horror stories about my Concepts and my old Nexus but I am sure that you have "lived" them all. I had a Nexus that had that "whipping" problem and I could not pin point it nor why I was having intermittant vibrations. I took apart the tail one day ... lo and behold there was the culprit. The drive wire had whipped inside and wore the plastic rod guides to a horrible, melted mess. I believe that happened long beofre the Nexus was given to me by my crazy cousin. Still I had long forgotten about that issue until now. I do have one other Concept SR that is giving me vibe issues. I have to take that tail boom apart and give her the once over. Thanks for your advice, I will put it to good use.
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-14-06 03:27 AM - Post#79099
My tail has a clean bill of health. I took it apart tonight just to see if there were any melt down issues and it is clean. I relubed the gears and put it back together. It is still something to watch though.
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larrytoelle Full Time Senior Member Posts 3735
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11-14-06 03:15 PM - Post#79112
Howdy, Have you guys tried to build a torque tube for that bird? I have made a torque tube for the old Schluter Champions using MA couplers and arrow shafts. Really easy once you have the parts in hand. Also, Century has a decent set of couplers that replaced the old Hawk wire drive ... nearly idential to the MA, but at half the cost. Makes maintenance a whole lot easier and also allows the tail to be driven by a HH gyro and quick servo without worrying about twisting/breaking the wire. LT
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Rudy Full Time Senior Member Posts 4841
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11-15-06 12:48 AM - Post#79126
Century had a whole torque tube conversion kit for the Nexus back when.
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-22-06 02:29 AM - Post#79227
And finding that now would be like finding Nellie (Loch Ness). 
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Rudy Full Time Senior Member Posts 4841
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11-24-06 03:28 AM - Post#79283
I have one some place in the black hole storge unit I have. I don't know where it is in there, I just remember it's in there with my other Nexus parts
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-25-06 03:16 PM - Post#79343
If you're ever interested in selling it and you have time to organise an expedition let me know.
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larrytoelle Full Time Senior Member Posts 3735
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11-25-06 10:42 PM - Post#79354
Howdy Wayne, You really ought to be able to put one together from a Century Hawk Pro manual ... for the parts numbers. The parts are reasonable ... not much to it really. My biggest problem was finding arrow shafts of the right outside diameter. The couplers and bearing carriers are a snap ... transmission output shaft sizes can be adapted as can tail box input shaft sizes ... some shim stock or a drill if you get in a pinch. LT
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-26-06 01:57 AM - Post#79360
Thanks Larry. I guess I would have to check the sporting goods store for arrows?
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larrytoelle Full Time Senior Member Posts 3735
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11-26-06 03:32 PM - Post#79372
Howdy Wayne, Well ... maybe. I happen to live in "redneck country" ... so we have archery only stores which stock just the arrow shaft. A typical sporting goods store will more-than-likely have complete arrows (12 bucks on up for CF). The shaft itself, without fletching etc, is in the 4-5 dollar range. Let me know what diameter you need and I'll send them to you. I have a good relationship with our local shop and can get whatever you need. Also, for the larger birds like the Bergens ... you'll use an aluminum shaft. I have some inserts for aluminum shafts that I believe were/are a MA part. JB weld the insert into the shaft and it has a dandy little notch that attaches it to the the MA coupler. While on arrow shafts, there's a "youth" CF shaft that younger archers use ... it's lighter and smaller in diameter. They make great push rods for the tail pitch ... makes a simple friction free linkage back to the tail ... about 4 bucks. They're light enough that you don't need to fart with guides. I just JB weld short links into the shaft, screw on the ball links ... and that's it. LT
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reddragon Full Time Senior Member Posts 3870
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11-28-06 03:10 AM - Post#79411
Larry this all sounds so involved! LOL Thank you for all your suggestions though. I am sure that something will work for me.
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